What is Integrated Pest Management (IPM)?
Components of Integrated Pest Management (IPM)
5 Steps to Implementing IPM
The 10 Commandments of IPM

5 Steps to Implementing IPM

1. Identify the Pest
If your only interest is to kill a pest, all you may need to do is identify it. But if you also want to use least toxic pest control you need to understand the role the pest plays in relation to its environment. This is called Insect Biology/Entomology and Behavior patterns. It will reveal many pest control options you can't perceive if you only focus on killing the pest.

2. Determine the Pest's needs for survival.

• Limit access to all food, water, and shelter
• Encourage natural predators.
• Limit resources by moving the food source further from the pest's habitat
• Reduce the carrying capacity of a site (ability of a particular site to support a pest - reduce the site's carrying capacity for the pest, and increase the carrying capacity for the pest's natural enemies)

3. Utilize Natural Pest Controls 

• Climate & Weather
• Food Water & Habitat
• Pathogens
• Predators

4. Pick a Non Pesticidal Treatment Strategy (an overall approach to any pest problem)

• Correcting structural deficiencies.  
• Caulking sealing all openings big and small.
• Avoid all areas of any type of clutter
• Open windows ,holes in a screen repair
• Clean all drains and floor drains, garbage areas.
• Move dumpsters far away from any building think of a dumpster as a magnet drawing pests and rodents.
• Dumpsters are food water and shelter to a pest.

5. Pick a Tactic (a specific action or series of actions within that strategy) 

• An Alternative IPM Program Components with Monitoring stations
• Determining Threshold Levels Applying new adjusting Strategies and Tactics
• Evaluation and Program Redesign

1.  Indirect Suppression 
1.  Strategy A: Design/Redesign the  Physical Structure (design the pest out of the system) 
• Tactic 1: Inspect and document .Select what resist pests and use exclusion for structure
• Tactic 2: Use an environment that promotes a pest free and healthily atmosphere.
2. Strategy B: Modify the habitat
   • Tactic 1: Reduce pests' food, water, shelter
   • Tactic 2: Enhance environment for the pest's lack of survival
3. Strategy C: Change human behaviors inside and outside
   • Tactic 1: Change cultivating, mowing, watering, fertilizing, pruning, mulching practices away from the buildings
• Tactic 2: Modify waste management and sanitation procedures on a daily basis
• Tactic 3: Inspect & quarantine new pests and materials causing issues
• Tactic 4: Education on all levels of how to cooperate with the IPM Program
2. Direct Suppression
   1. Strategy A: Physical and Mechanical Controls
      • Tactic 1: Manually remove pests (hedge clippers, vacuum, hoe)
      • Tactic 2: Use barriers (nets, screens, caulking) inside and outside
      • Tactic 3: Use heat, cold, or water where necessary
      • Tactic 4: Education on cooperation
   2. Strategy B: Biological Controls
      • Tactic 1:Conservation of biological controls 
        • Treat only if acceptable injury levels will be exceeded
        • Spot treat to reduce the impact on the natural enemies of pest
        • Time treatments to be least disruptive
        • Select the most species specific, least broadly damaging treatment
      • Tactic 2: Augmentation of natural enemies (artificially increase enemies who are already present in low numbers) inside and outside.
      • Tactic 3: Inoculation with natural enemies (release enemies early in the season before they are generally present) into ant plants indoors : ladybugs
      • Tactic 4: Importation of personnel habits that need to be corrected.
   3. Strategy C: Least Toxic Chemical Control

Example of Treatment Strategy I.
Tactic 1. Better Planning To Eliminate Pests
There are several factors that contribute to this excessive use of pesticide. One factor is in how we design our buildings and landscapes. Generally speaking, we choose based on their appearance, not on realistic criteria. We tend to emphasize a monoculture- that is we like to segregate different spaces. A perfect example is a kitchen or food storage area.

• Correct temperature, humidity and stock rotation prevents pests from readily populating and spreading. Example food product storage pests, Flour beetle, weevil and Indian meal moth.

Example of EXTERIOR Treatment Strategies
Tactic 1: ORGANIC Lawn Care
Lawn care usually applies standard chemicals on a fixed, year round basis. This means your lawn is getting fertilizer, herbicides and pesticides whether it needs them or not. This continuous "quick fix" may make your lawn look nice in the short term, but it creates a chemically dependent lawn, susceptible to weather and pests. Your lawn service may also be responsible for killing beneficial earthworms and microorganisms, which are necessary to break down thatch (plant debris) naturally.

What can you do to have a healthy lawn, free of pests? To avoid stressing grass, mow no more than one- third of the blade of grass off at one time and cut it no shorter than 2.5 inches. This will require more frequent mowing. Lawn mower blades can spread pathogens such as fungus. Clean your blades or if you use a lawn service, ask them to spray clean their blades with a ten-to-one dilution of alcohol to kill pathogens. Make sure the mower blades are sharp. The number one cause of lawn grass death is from misuse of lawn mowers. Dull blades rip grass instead of cutting it, which weakens it and makes it more susceptible to disease and pests. Frequent, light watering encourages shallow roots, which increases the potential for disease. Water your lawn less often, once per week, but for longer periods of time up to 30 minutes. This will make the roots grow longer and deeper and make the grass less susceptible to disease. Rather than applying chemicals at set times, only apply them when there is a problem and spot treat problem areas only.

Example of Treatment Strategy II.
Tactic 2: Common Natural Enemies
Biological control uses natural enemies to keep pests in check. Natural enemies are called "beneficial" because they assist us in controlling pests. Identification of beneficial insects is the first step of biological control. Natural enemies are placed in three major groups: Predators, Parasitoids and Pathogens.

A predator attacks, kills and eats its prey. Some predators are host specific and some eat a wide variety of pests. A lady beetle is a common example of a predator that eats aphids. Praying mantis, spined soldier bugs, lacewings, flower bugs, and spiders are also predators.
Parasitoids lay eggs in or on a host. When the eggs hatch, they kill the host by consuming its organs or body fluids. A common example is the parasitic wasp, which lays its eggs on pest larva. Most parasitoids come from the fly and wasp family.

Pathogens are bacteria, fungi or viruses that invade pests, causing disease. The disease often weakens the pest and kills it.

Beneficial insects are important to you. Distinguishing pests from beneficial can prevent the killing of a beneficial (pest controlling insect). Avoid the use of broad spectrum pesticides because they will kill both pests and beneficial insects. There are catalogs available, which list suppliers of beneficial organisms in the United States. Now that we know the five steps toward achieving IPM, let's examine the cultural, physical and biological ways to further reduce all pests.

A. Why Do We Have Pest Problems From the Start?

1. Landscape design and sanitation
2. Landscape maintenance
3. Landscape goals

B. Cultural Controls

1. Compatible plants for the landscape
2. Avoid monocultures
3. Correct watering and fertilizing procedures

C. Knowing When to Walk Away

1. Affect of no action scenario
2. Affect of natural controls 

D. Physical and Mechanical Controls 

1. Use a hose to wash the pest out 
2. Use shears to trim the pest out 
3. Use traps or barriers 
4. Use a hoe for weed control and design the landscape to avoid weeds 

E. Biological Controls 

1. Identify the predator 
2. Attract and keep predators 
3. Obtain predators 

F. Last Approach 

1. Identify pesticide spray options 
2. Identify the most effective least toxic spray options 

G. Improving our Integrated Pest Management Procedures Learn from the pest infestation

Basics of a healthy lawn: 

• Do not over water. Daily watering encourages shallow roots. 
• Do not cut grass too short. 
• Avoid chemical fertilizers and pesticides inside and outside. 
• Fertilize only as needed, not on a schedule. 
• Use organic fertilizers. 
• Leave grass clippings on lawn. 
• Monitor for early signs of pest problems. Take preventive non-toxic action first. 
• Use pesticides only as a last resort. 
• Be patient, it takes time to detoxify your lawn. Benefits of a chemical free lawn: 
• It takes care of itself, requires less time, effort or money. 
• Grass grows slower, needs less mowing and watering because it will have longer roots. 
• It is better able to withstand stress including pests, diseases, and weather. 

The answer to why there are pest problems on lawns and building landscapes is simple . . . it's us. Most people create very unnatural plant and animal communities around their buildings. Take the lawn, for example, where one type of plant is grown in a large area. This is called a monoculture. It is seen in agriculture and of course in lawn and landscape designs. Nowhere in nature is one type of plant growing in large areas. In a natural scenario, other plants are present trying to take a foothold, just as is seen on a lawn.

Wherever the conditions change just enough to make it possible for a seed to sprout, and the grass is not able to choke it out, weeds will grow. The only way to have a weed free lawn is to dream about it. There are some lawns that appear to be perfect, but they are not. Chemicals are short cuts, which create a lot of environmental problems and often do not work in the long run. A system that closely simulates natural conditions will decrease pest problems. How much grass do you really need? Consider planting some ground covers, shrubs or wild flowers as an alternative to some of your grass area. For areas where lawns are necessary, minimize the area because lawns are the largest users our resources like water, maintenance (time & money) and chemicals. The way that we cut the grass is also very important. Dull mower blades do most of the damage. Mowers and weed eaters kill more grass than chinch bugs and fungi. Lawns are often overfed and over watered. Over watering attracts insects, fungi, and the standing water in some areas of the lawn will attract weeds. Grass should be watered only when necessary. This will increase root growth. 

TREES
When choosing landscape material try to use native species in the appropriate locations. Some of the best natives to use in NYS are the plants and trees from coastal areas and pine communities. However, there are many others that will work just as well. Most, if not all, new home sites are very hot, open areas, with very poor soil conditions. The plants along the NYS coast have evolved under similar conditions. They are adapted to high wind, salt, poor soils, and sparse water, which makes them perfect for the home landscape. One misconception with natives is that they must have an uncontrolled look or add little color to the landscape. This is untrue. The photographs, which follow, prove this point. The three most important benefits of using native plants are: 1) the decrease in the amounts of insecticides and fertilizers required to maintain the landscape; 2) the amount of wildlife that is supported by these plants and trees; and 3) decreased water use. Native plants and trees will attract more butterflies and birds, which many people desire around their homes. Most, if not all, pests that feed on exotic plants are also exotic and they don't feed on native plants.

KNOW YOUR SITE CONDITIONS
The first consideration when choosing a plant species should be conditions surrounding the building. For example, if the sides of a structure tend to retain standing water during the summer, plants that live in standing water should be chosen. This is a very common problem with old buildings due to the lack of gutters, the soil conditions, and the flood control systems for the site. There are many options available when designing the landscaping for your areas. It is better to work with the existing conditions than to try to make a major physical change. If changes are made, higher maintenance will be needed to help them stay that way. The more natural the conditions the plant is put in, the less work will be necessary. A plant that lives naturally in full sun with very little water should not be placed on the shady side of a structure with sprinklers on three times per week. The natives once place properly and established, will need little help to stay looking their best. 

It is possible to design landscapes, which use no pesticides, little organic fertilizers and very little water. Conditions around the home should be surveyed. Native plants, palms and trees, compatible with site conditions should be chosen for planting around the home. Trees should be added whenever possible. They will cool down the building; keep down noise and help support wildlife. New structures always seem very hot and barren because of the lack of trees. This feeling declines as the trees start to mature. There never seems to be enough tree cover on large home sites. Ten thousand square feet of sod and one lonely tree is a common sight. Grass requires higher maintenance and will use up large amounts of water and money. A few good trees and shrub material would last longer, use very little resources and help support the native wildlife. Grass is a very inexpensive ground cover, which makes it so popular to developers. However, the cost to the homeowner to maintain these grassed areas is a lot higher than landscaping with native trees, shrubs and ground covers. There has been great success in communities that have restored natives or protected natives during the development. 
 
 

Small Trees examples
Four small trees have been placed along the east side of the property. Satin Leaf has been placed on the southeast corner, a Geiger Tree is located near the garage, a Silver Buttonwood is located at the corner of the home and at the far north east corner of the property there is a Pigeon Plum tree. A Wax Myrtle is planted in the lawn area in the back yard to draw the birds out of the surrounding plantings to
 feed on the fruit 

Shade Trees
Larger tree species have been placed on the west side of the property to provide shade. This will lower the electricity bill by cutting air-conditioning use. A Laurel Oak has been placed in the southwest corner of the property. A Gumbo Limbo is then planted on the west side. A Paradise Tree is placed north of the Gumbo Limbo and a Live Oak is located at the northwest corner of the structure. 

A Sea Grape is placed in the front driveway circle planting area. Although the leaves drop once a year as it gets new foliage, the trunk of the tree can be very attractive. This is a good location for more aggressive ground covers because the driveway and sidewalk would keep it in bounds Palm trees add greenery and texture without becoming overpowering and hiding the building.

Hedges and Shrubs
Use more than one type of hedge on your property. Utilizing one hedge species can result in an insect problem and a maintenance nightmare. Plant your hedges along the property line in shrub groupings and mix them up. This is to avoid monocultures as mentioned previously. 

Ground Covers
Ground covers are used to fill in the remaining areas. The east side of the property could utilize a more full sun type of ground cover depending on the height of this structure and adjacent buildings. 

Ground covers such as Sword Fern, native Porter weed and taller Porter weeds are used on the west side because they are more shade tolerant. The front and back yards have more light exposure so Pentas and Milkweed are placed there. The milkweed will have a beautiful bloom; however it will look thin and leggy when fed upon by the Queen and Monarch caterpillars. 

Do not leave any open areas. Use mulch to fill in as a ground cover, but design the planting areas to be very tight. This will reduce the possibility of a major weed problem. Also, plant a ground cover under the trees to keep lawn maintenance equipment away from the trunks. 
One fun thing to do is to experiment with different ground covers. Most of the ground covers should last at least one to three years; some can last a lot longer.

Benefits Derived From the Native Species Landscape
What does the use of native plants have to do with common sense pest control? Native plants need very little, if any, pesticides. This results in less opportunity for chemicals to get into the food chain and affect man and animals. An occasional native insect pest will bother native plants. But because the pest is native, it will have many native enemies to keep it under control. This will prevent the pest population from getting large enough to make a significant impact on the plant. Native plants have evolved with the native insects and the plants have adapted their own defenses. 

On the other hand, the use of exotic (non-native) plants results in non-native insect infestations. Thenon- native pests have very few natural enemies to control them. The pest's population can grow astronomically and pesticides are often needed to keep it in check. 
Another benefit of native plants is that they need less fertilization if the design and plant selection are done correctly. This is because they are more adapted to our climate and soils. It is important to design the landscape based on the condition you have naturally.

Native plants will thrive with Less water once established. The normal rainfall patterns should be enough unless there is a severe drought. The natives may need to be watered approximately three to five times per year. This is opposed to exotic plants, which may need water three to five times per week! Native hedges will need less trimming than exotic hedges, especially in the winter. Once native hedges are topped and faced for the normal hedge look, they will go longer between trimmings than tropical exotics. This will save time and money. 

1. Lower pesticide use, possibly eliminate pesticide use 
2. Increase and help wildlife by providing food and shelter 
3. Lower fertilizer use, possibly eliminate fertilizer use 
4. Drastically lower water use 
5. Save time and money on maintenance 

The main concept is to show the diversity of native and wildlife landscaping. Try to use as many different types of plant species as possible. This will create the greatest amount of diversity in wildlife. This design was also to show you a design featuring less grass. Keep in mind some maintenance will need to be done to keep the garden somewhat under control.
Design is very important from a usage standpoint. It may look nice but it may not work. If you need help, find a designer or Cornell Universities IPM turf and ornamental specialist who works with natives and let him/her know what you want out of your landscape (lower water and maintenance bills, what types of wildlife you would like to see) and talk with him or her. So go have some fun and watch all the wildlife you have been missing. 

The next time you purchase plants etc for landscaping, think of the following:

1. What does the plant need to stay in good health? (Water, light, soil, etc.) 
2. Do you have those conditions naturally or do you have to create them? 
3. What is the long-term goal of my exterior or interior landscape project? 
4. What does this plant provide for the native wildlife? 

Keeping these things in mind will help keep costs and complaints down and will lower the negative impact that pests and landscape will have on the building its clients and the environment.

For more information on Integrated Pest Management (IPM) please visit http://www.whatisipm.org